Stone counters are elegant and durable when installed and cared for properly.

Stone Properties
When it comes to selecting countertops, stones with similar looks and characteristics are often combined into one class, even though they may actually be different stone types. The most common stone types for kitchen countertops are marble, slate, soapstone, limestone, travertine, and some sandstones. Slabs are cut into two-foot wide strips and then further custom fabricated.
A stone’s strengths and vulnerabilities depend on its hardness or resistance to abrasion and scratching. Stones are composed of deposits that affect their overall strength. Granite—composed of quartz and feldspars—is resistant to scratches and resistant to many chemicals. Marble—any crystallized carbonate rock—is softer and more chemically sensitive, so it will show wear sooner than granite. Marble can be etched by acids and stained by oils, but is restored more easily than granite.
Stones like marble that are limestone-based are more susceptible to acid attacks than silicate-based stones like slate, soapstone, or granite. Stone counters are susceptible to stains, scratching, and breaking, but are easy-to-clean and resistant to bacteria growth. Stone countertops are cleaned with hot water, not detergent because it can leave a cloudy residue. Granite tops may be wiped with vinegar.
Preventing Countertop Damage
Understanding a stone countertop’s vulnerabilities and care requirements will ensure a comfortable and long-lasting fit in your home.
Staining
Most, but not all, stone countertops come sealed with a substance that impregnates the material to protect against stains. If a sealer or impregnator is applied, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use on food preparation surfaces. Stone countertops that are sealed usually require re-application every five years, and sometimes as often as every two years depending on the product used.
"The biggest issue on any contaminant is dwell time," says Chuck Muehlbauer, technical director for the Marble Institute of America, in Westlake, Ohio. If you choose a stone countertop, you will have to protect it—as you would most other types of countertops—from staining foods by cleaning up immediately after use or a spill. Acids from tomatoes or lemon juice are noted for staining if not wiped up promptly.
Scratches
Guard against scrapes from pans or knives on marble or other non-granite stone surfaces by using placemats under china, ceramics, silver, and abrasive objects that can scratch the surface.
Cracking
Stone—even granite—can crack from a strong, localized heat source such as hot pans or dishes, so it’s important to use trivets or hot mats underneath.
Repairing Stone Counters
Counters can be polished to eliminate stains or scratches. Small cracks or chips may require resin injection and polishing, a job best left to professional restorers. Pitting is common with granite and most polished igneous rocks so you must be prepared for how the stone will age. Fissures also occur naturally in many stone types. This visible separation differs from a crack in that it is a naturally occurring feature in the stone and one that contributes to its character.
If your stone surface cracks, the entire countertop will need to be replaced. However, certain repairs are possible if the damage is not in a structurally significant area.
Costs and Installation
Once a stone is cut into strips, the fabricator uses basic measurements of your countertop to finish edges and plan for sink and cooktop cutouts. Stone countertops range from $30 to $100 per square foot installed. The type of stone, thickness, and number of cutouts impacts the cost. Almost all stone countertops come in either 20mm or 30mm thickness, roughly 3⁄4 and 11⁄4 inches. Dozens of edge profiles are available.
A very experienced handyman could install a stone countertop, but it’s not recommended by stone experts. A fabricated countertop often arrives in sections that must be seamed. Separate stone backslashes, corners, and extra long sections require seaming. Multiple sections will not affect performance but will impact installation and total cost.
During installation, cabinets must be permanently affixed. Fragile stone varieties or those with excessive fissuring or unsound veins may require a full subtop to support the stone. If an undermount sink has been chosen, a special support rail for the cabinet frame is suggested. Stone sections are set on adhesive beads on the cabinet. Polyester adhesive, which cures to a hard shiny state, is the most common material used to seal the seams, which are about 1/16th of an inch. The whole installation process typically takes a half day.
Countertop Choices

A counter is as resistant as the stone it’s made from. Use the list below to study the strengths and weaknesses of the most popular stone countertop varieties:
Granites: Resistant to abrasions and scratches. Resistant to most chemicals but may be vulnerable to some acids. Can be porous and stained by oils.
Marbles, serpentines and onyxes: Known for their aesthetic appeal. Vulnerable to scratches, abrasions, and chemical attack. Stained by oils and other liquids.
Soapstone’s: Easily scratched. Unaffected by acids but darkened by oils. Stains can be scrubbed out.
Limestones and travertine’s: Vulnerable to acids and abrasions. Many varieties have high absorption rates.
Slate: Very dense so not as porous and susceptible to staining. Low to medium absorption of oils and other liquids. Easily scratched. Handles heat well.
Source: bobvila.com

See what the real pros have to say about this topic.

Stone Countertops - Natural Stone Restoration Alliance

When asked, what is the best part of your job, he said “One of my favorite parts of the job is when the customer returns and has a hard time finding the seam that was so apparent before the work was done” Steve concludes. “For us in the stone restoration trade this is a form of art.”

To learn more, visit Steve at http://countertop-repair.com

Commercial or construction use of stone

Architects, specifies, designers, clients; choosing and using stone is an experience and one for which we recommend you ask for professional advice. Stone is a naturally occurring material and as such, has to be chosen like no other building material. Stone Federation members are fully trained, experienced and competent professionals who should be consulted as soon as you decide to use natural stone on your project. They can advise you and prevent any costly mistakes being made before it is too late.

Domestic use of stone

Using stone in your home or property can enhance your living space but you must be aware of the questions to ask when making your choice of stone.

Stone, correctly selected, can enhance the value of your property and be durable, and virtually maintenance free. However, incorrectly selected it can cause you problems. By purchasing stone you are making an investment so protect your money and get the right advice. Stone Federation suggests you always consult the experts first.

General types of natural stone

Classification

There are many different classification schemes for stone, which have prompted the industry to simplify descriptions. This has led to many problems when, for instance, a stone laid as a granite is actually found to be a different stone type altogether and does not perform as expected. The British Standard BSEN12440 (Denomination of natural stone) addresses the classification problem and insists upon the correct identification of stone type and origin. For the purposes of this guidance however, the simplified descriptions remain and it must be stressed that all stones should be considered individually for their merits in whatever use they are being considered for.

GRANITE

The term granite has been applied to almost any igneous stone that can retain a polish. True granites provide many of these stones but other types of igneous stone that may fall into this classification include syenites, gabbros, dolerites, and diorites. The metamorphic stones gneiss, schist and granulite are frequently also included in this ‘granite’ classification.

The formation of these igneous rocks by the slow cooling of molten minerals such as quartz, feldspar and hornblende has resulted in a wide variety of colors and grain patterns.

In the United Kingdom the quarrying of granite is concentrated in a small number of locations. Those of particular importance may be found in Devon and Cornwall, Cumbria, at Peterhead and Aberdeen and on the east coast of Scotland.

The main sources for imported granite are Scandinavia, South Africa, Sardinia, Portugal, Spain, India, North America, China and Brazil.

Applications
The interlocking crystal structure imparts both the high strength and low porosity necessary for a wide range of applications other than just flooring; these characteristics are also important in allowing successful use of slabs that are thinner than other types of stone.

Appearance
The immense color choice includes fine and medium grained silver gray from Devon and Cornwall and fine grained pink from Scotland, whilst other countries provide dense, very fine grained materials with reflective crystals such as larvikite (e.g. blue and emerald pearl) from Norway; reds from Scandinavia and India; large grained brown from Finland; yellows from Brazil; and the delicately mottled grays, fawns and pinks from Sardinia.

The surface finish affects the appearances of granite and those available include sawn, flame textured, dolly pointed, fine axed, rough punched, honed, bush hammered and water jet. It is in the gloss polished form, however, that these granites reveal fully their colors and grain patterns.

Performance
Very hardwearing and physically strong, granite is largely unaffected by erosion, pollution or atmospheric attack. Facades are generally self cleaning, although eye level areas benefit from occasional cleaning as for glazing. A polished finish is almost indestructible.

SANDSTONE The term sandstone is used to describe almost any stone of sedimentary origin with a granular texture. Some other types of stone that may fall under this classification include grit stones, siltstones, gray whacks, conglomerates and marls. Aside from particle size variations, the dominant factor affecting sandstone performance is the grain cement that may be siliceous, calcareous, clay bearing or iron-rich.

Geologically it is a sedimentary type rock made up of various mineral particles mainly quartz, mica and feldspar. All these minerals are bonded together with natural cements such as silica, calcium carbonates, iron oxides and clays. The individual make up of each sandstone gives a wide range of colors. A pure silica sandstone is white with the colors arising from other minerals. Iron oxides can cause the stone to vary from buff or brown through to the deepest red. Gray color stone is due to the presence of clay and green could indicate the presence of glauconite which contained potassium.

Sandstone is a natural material traditionally regarded as the building stone of the North. However, sandstone can be seen throughout the United Kingdom in many prestigious buildings from structures which form part of our heritage to modern office blocks.

Sandstone is traditionally used as a building material in many areas where it occurs locally particularly in Derbyshire, Yorkshire and the North East of England, Wales and Scotland. Many of the “stone cities” of the North derive their particular architectural character from the use of sandstone.

Most of the major sandstone quarries working today are located in the North of England, Derbyshire and Scotland. For flooring purposes, sandstones are also imported.

Appearance
Sandstone has many colors ranging from white, gray and buff to various shades of pink and red.

The color and texture of stone is self evident, however the color of dry stone can change quite dramatically on wetting. Natural weathering can play a major part in the change of color. Such color change can sometimes be viewed on abandoned faces of the quarry although it is much more important to view existing buildings constructed from the same stone.

Sandstones generally have an even texture, which may vary from course to fine, but the stone from some quarries also show attractive natural markings.

Applications
Many types of sandstone are suitable for paving or flooring. Some can be split (“riven”) otherwise the normal finish is sawn. Tooled, sandblasted and flame textured finishes are also available.

There is a vast variety of surface finishes available from the traditional rubble walling to wrought stonework with its finishes to different forms ie. boasting, pitched, broached, hammer dressed and rusticated, to the very intricate looking vermiculated. But most importantly, credit must go to the craftsmen who hue the sandstone to all the various forms from large stones with a high degree of molding to the most intricate of carving work. Sandstones are suitable for block construction in most building and engineering work and can now be cut to relatively thin sections for cladding to steel framed or concrete structured buildings.

All in all sandstone is one of the few historic natural minerals still in use today. It provides excellent durability and is virtually maintenance free. It is aesthetically appealing to the eye whilst giving great value for money to the client.

Performance
Most sandstones have good load bearing and weathering properties. Correct detailing with regard to weathering is of prime importance, especially on buildings designed with sloping surfaces and without overhangs. Great care is required in the design of non-ferrous cramps and corbels for fixing to structures.

SLATE Slate is found extensively, throughout the British Isles and has, for centuries, been a major source of building stone. Historically, and, in common with other stones, it was first used in and around the immediate areas of availability.

The term slate is often used to describe any rock that can be easily split into thin sheets, principally for roofing purposes. True slate is defined by the presence of a ‘slaty’ cleavage; this allows the slate to be split at almost any point through the stone parallel to the cleavage plane. Most true slates are metamorphosed sediments, often formerly mud stones; however, some British “slates” are derived from volcanic ash sequences and are not true slates in the strict geological sense.
Appearance
The major UK sources of slate, with their distinctive colors, are the Lake District blue/gray, light green, olive green and silver gray, North Wales blue, gray, blue-black and red, and Cornwall - gray.

Slate is easily split (“riven”) into thin sections, giving a natural finish. Other finishes include sawn, sanded, fine rubbed, flame textured, bush hammered and water jet.

Applications
From the very early, basic applications, British Slate is now used for very wide and diverse purposes. Modern quarrying and machine processes allow prime blocks to be sawn or split into large slabs and a variety of thickness. Current products include: roofing, cladding, cills, copings, flooring & paving, treads, plaques & memorials, work tops & fireplaces.

Slate is typically a very durable construction material and rarely exhibits visible degradation, even when placed under extreme atmospheric conditions for many years. For flooring purposes U.K. slate is unlikely to delaminate or exhibit efflorescence.

High flexural strength and typically very low porosity makes slate eminently suitable for flooring purposes and it requires little maintenance.

Caution should be exercised when choosing material marketed as slate as some may not be suitable for flooring. If any doubt exists about the material being considered, specialist advice should be sought.

Very thin, split, natural riven sections are used for roofing and the same methods produce thicker material for flooring and cladding. Slate is readily available in sawn, fine rubbed and other finishes such as sand-blasted and flame textured.

Performance
British Slate has a proven record of durability and being supplied fit for its intended purposes. This is readily seen on countless buildings in the UK and many areas of the world. Such examples of installation are witness to the ability of slate to withstand the rigours of extreme atmospheric conditions. Slate is extremely stable and will not degrade, warp or twist. Quality Assurance, management systems are widely used throughout the industry.

LIMESTONE

Stone is a material that man has used in building for several thousand years and it still lends itself to modern usage and design, and limestone in its various geological forms is probably the type of natural stone most widely used for this purpose. It occurs naturally in many parts of the UK with the limestones of the Jurassic period being those of most importance in this field. They run broadly in a belt from Dorset and Somerset in the south west, through the Cotswold’s and Oxford shire, on into Northampton shire and Lincolnshire, to just north of the Humber.Limestone is a sedimentary rock. Many of the commonly used varieties were formed by the accretion of the hard remains of former organisms such as corals and shells. These materials principally comprise calcium carbonate (calcite), as does the cement. Calcite is a relatively soft mineral and careful selection will be needed when you choose this for use as flooring. Variations in the types and quantities of shell and other remains and the nature of the cement provide a huge range in the types of limestone available.

The limestones of these areas were used for building in Roman times and, in later centuries and to-date, have been the traditional building material of their localities, Many buildings throughout these counties bear witness to this. In addition, some limestones are extensively used outside their areas of origins as is evidenced by the many fine buildings to be seen throughout the British Isles, particularly in major cities and towns. Cathedrals, churches and numerous public and private buildings provide outstanding examples of the durability and beauty of these limestones and they show through the skill of the mason, how this stone is so eminently suitable for producing masonry of excellence in all aspects of plain and detailed work that may be required. Among the better known limestones of the Jurassic age are those of Purbeck, Clipsham, Ancaster, Ketton, Bath, Doulting and Weldon, whilst Portland stone is a characteristic feature of London architecture. From the earlier Carboniferous age come the limestones of Derbyshire and Cumbria such as Hopton Wood, Sheldon, Orton Scar and Salterwath.

Imported limestones, most notably French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Turkish, Egyptian and Israeli are also available in the UK.

Appearance
The colors of limestones range from almost white to the warm honey tone of Bath stones with gray/blue and darker browns a feature in some limestones. Textures range from fine even grained stones to the smooth fossil bearing types and to the coarse open textured Portland roach. Certain limestones such as Purbeck and Hopton Wood take a polish and can be used as “marbles”.

Applications
Limestones are used extensively in both new building and restoration where their ease of working facilitates the production of cladding, ashlar and other forms of walling. They are also suitable for flooring.

Many limestones are particularly suited to carved and moulded work. Components such as cills and jambs, soffits and copings, heads and mullions are readily produced to add interest and enrichment to building facades.

Performance
Limestones generally have good load bearing properties and weathering characteristics although correct detailing is important as with all building materials. Limestones must not be used above sandstones on exterior elevations.

The properties of individual types of stone can vary considerably and advice should always be sought on the selection of suitable stones, both for general and particular applications.

MARBLE True marbles in the geological sense are metamorphosed limestone and are principally composed of recrystallised calcite formed into an interlocking granular structure. Some hard or partially metamorphosed limestones are incorrectly referred to as marble, even though they exhibit many of the characteristics of marble.

In its ‘purest’ state marble is typically white, however the presence of other minerals can often provide color (s). In some cases the color appears as irregular shaped patches (brecciation) or as substantial veining. Specialist advice should be obtained as to the suitability of such marbles in particular locations.

Greater care must also be taken during installation as other construction defects easily taint the pureness of marble, particularly from underlying materials, and may result in staining at a later date.

It is common to use marble with a highly polished surface finish and, as a consequence, slip resistance should be carefully considered. Marble is imported.

QUARTZITES

Quartzite’s are typically the metamorphosed product of an original sedimentary rock e.g. sandstone, composed almost entirely of quartz.

In general quartzite’s are hard wearing, have low porosity, a high compressive strength and good durability making them suitable for use as flooring. The metamorphic varieties in particular may be brittle and so some care is required in assessing a material prior to use. While composed largely of quartz, the presence of some impurities can lead to the development of different colors and the typical range is from white to yellowish brown, through to green, brown, gold, gray and blue. In Eire, the metamorphic quartzite’s have a complex geological history which has tended to result in them having a relatively small natural block size. All operating quartzite quarries in the British Isles occur in Eire. Elsewhere quartzite’s are commercially available from Norway, Sweden, Italy, South Africa, USA and Brazil.

TRAVERTINE

Travertine is the name normally given to a type of precipitated calcite associated with the cooling of waters around hot springs or in caves. Being formed very slowly it often incorporates dead matter such as tree debris that later rots away to leave a voided structure.

The performance of travertine greatly depends on the size and density of the voids, which, in most instances, are routinely resin surface filled before the finished stone is supplied. The nature of the fill material must be compatible with the travertine and not subject to discoloration or decay.

Traditionally travertine was naturally bedded and generally referred to as vein cut. Recently travertine cut face bedded and referred to as classics has appeared on the market. Whilst the vein cut material has a long and proven history of use, the cross cut or classic travertine has not yet proved to be as suitable because of surface collapse and filler failure. Before this material is considered, its limitations in performance must be taken into account.

Generally travertine is suitable only for internal flooring purposes, and then only after the most careful consideration. Strength may be lower than most other stones and the presence of hidden voids below the surface may lead to ongoing repair when the filling material collapses.

Unfilled travertine has been used for flooring purposes but only after strict quality control of the size and distribution of the voids. All travertine is imported.

GREEN MARBLE OR VERDE

Green or Verde marble is considered separately to true marble because its origin is often the result of the metamorphism of rocks other than limestones. The green color is typically derived from the presence of serpentine minerals. These minerals are relatively soft and the structure often weak, the stone commonly requiring reinforcement from matting glued to the underside.

Verde’s are rarely used for whole floors and are preferred for providing colored inserts to other flooring materials. Care must always be taken to ensure their compatibility with other stones.

A special consideration for any Verde is the presence or otherwise of asbestiform minerals that may be naturally present e.g. chrysotile (white asbestos) and the amphiboles tremolite and actinolite. It may be prudent to establish that, where present, fibres of these minerals in the respirable range are not generated during any cutting, grinding and polishing operations, particularly if carried out dry.

The Asbestos (Prohibitions) Regulations have banned the import, supply and use of blue, brown and white asbestos (crocidolite, amosite and chrysotile respectively) essentially when part of an asbestos admixture product. Natural stone that contains chrysotile for example, and is used for flooring, would not be classed as an asbestos admixture product.

You can find the very best stone cleaners and polish at www.nsraweb.com/store

Pick The Best Stone For The Job « Natural Stone Makes The Best Countertops

The two-day boot camp is packed with skills training that can only be learned through a true hands-on experience. One on one tutoring based on your individual skill level. Each student has the opportunity to perform multiple repairs and polish various types of stones. No seats. No stories. No sales pitch.
The students will learn how to make repairs and seams look and feel like a natural product, remove scratches, factory blending, chip repairs, color blending and matching, seam repairs, honing, and the widely coveted knowledge of top-polishing.
This class has been revamped to include some of today’s new trends and finishes. Students will also learn how to deal with and doctor natural stone in a variety of colors, how to perform and maintain the antique finish, and how to remove the flaws of poor cnc tooling.
For an additional $200 per student, we have also added for the first time a real Floor repair seminar where we will work on a newly install floor. We will perform all task from prep work to sealing.
Successful participants receive not only the knowledge, complete set of tools necessary to perform typical surface repairs, but they are also eligible to join the NSRA.
The NSRA is a nationwide group of independent, natural stone restoration professionals dedicated to quality and the education of the consumer and our members.
Time: May 09th - 10th - 11th 2008, from 9am-5pm
Place: 30 Hilliard Street, Manchester CT, 06040
Cost: $1,800.00 us dollars
Public registration Ended: May 01, 2008
Click here to see what others had to say about the
Click here to sign up our comprehensive class
Airport: Bradley International
Hotel: Fairfield Inn & SuitesSM by Marriott® Hartford Manchester
121 Pavilions Dr
Manchester, CT 06040

Stone Repair Class - Natural Stone Restoration Alliance

Stained stone

I had a visit from an old guy the other day who wanted advice about some staining on his stone - so I went to visit him this morning.
He has a lightly colored Juperana Indian Gold granite (very sandy, sedimentary stone) with what looks like typical cooking grease stains at his stove. He was told that the stone was sealed upon install but I have strong doubts about that because even at other areas you can see stains from simple hand oils at the edges and oily marks near eating areas on the island. He tried some poultice he bought at H.D. - it looked to him to have taken care of it. He placed tin foil over the poultice to hold the moisture in. When he applied aquamix sealer to it the oil spots returned.
I am not familiar with the poultice they sell at h.d. so I have no idea what it is. I have never used the aguamix sealer either. How tough will it be for a better poultice to get through the sealer.
Any suggestions? I would like to help the old guy out if I can.
I was thinking an acetone based poultice covered with plastic wrap to remove the stains and maybe enhance the color with ager after if some remain. I would hate to darken the kitchen on the guy unless I need to.

A: All you have to do is use a degrease, floor, plastic wrap and ducked tape to remove that stain, do not forget to cut small holes in the plastic.

Stained stone - Natural Stone Restoration Alliance

Q: How often should I use the Lustro Italiano cleaner?

A: The cleaner can be used on a daily basis (even several times during the day).  It is the product you will use to cleanup everyday spills. It will clean everyday spills and leave a beautiful shine without damaging your counter

Q: Can I use any countertop cleaner on my granite countertops?

A: No. Typical cleaners contain harsh chemicals that may damage your granite countertops.

In addition, granite is often sealed with chemicals to add strength and fill in pores; certain chemical cleaners may erode these sealers.  Granite countertops are an expensive investment and it makes sense to use products design specifically for granite.

Q: How should I apply the Lustro Italiano cleaner and polish?

A: Just spray the cleaner on your countertop and use a paper towel to dry the counter.  The polish should be applied lightly and buffed to a shine with a cotton cloth. The same would apply to granite flooring but an old fashioned cotton string mop can be used for the polish.  Remember both products may make floors slippery initially, so be careful when walking on wet surfaces!

Q: Will certain foods, drinks or cleaners stain my stone countertop?
A: Granite and Marble are porous materials. Marble is actually 10 times LESS porous then granite. Although it would seem like a good idea to use Marble for a countertop, you need to take in consideration that marble is basically calcium carbonated. That means it will etch if in contact with any acid material. Acid is present in citruses, ketchup, sodas, etc. so all in all granite is a better fit for a kitchen countertop.

Q: Do I need to use a sealer on my countertop?
A: A use of a good sealer is recommended to maintain your countertop clean. Using the "Lustro Italiano Stone Polish" regularly, will allow you to avoid re-sealing yearly.

Rules:
*Owner must be an active participant of the forum to submit their site
*User must have 10 are more post to submit their site
*Each user can submit only 1 site per month
*The submitter must own are work for the owner of the website
*All site must promote the use of natural stone over all other surfaces

How Will It Work
On the 1st of each month we’ll create a thread that users can submit their Site for the SOTM Poll. This will be open for 3 Days
Next, the Nsra core members will choose the top 3 to 5 sites and create a Poll where users can vote on the BOTM.
SOTM winners will receive a link on 12,000 pages
You will get a thumbnail of your site, a short description of your site with a link to it on almost all of the pages of the nsraweb.com
You will have a spot on the
NSRA blog network that presently consists of 20 blogs
NSRA Link Directory
You will also receive a little button that you can place on your site that shows the month and year that you won over your fellow tradesman.

Can you imagine, 12-20,000 new back links in one month!!

NSRA website of the Month (SOTM) - Natural Stone Restoration Alliance

When marketing a product, one expects a bit of hype. The idea is to show that the product is the best over the competitor’s line of product. That is the trade of advertisers and the history of marketing. Some tactics used to sell can be humorous or as serious as the competition between manufacturers. Marketing tactics that play on fears of the general public can be a very powerful tool.

In the present day, there’s a very popular angle of “green.” This is prevalent everywhere in the media. So what happens when you mix a scare tactic under the guise of environmental concern?

Buildclean found the answer to that question. The premise seems of the nonprofit organization seems to be admirable but the fact that the “awareness campaign” that Buildclean is currently using seems to be curiously slanted. In fact, the target seems to be the natural stone industry.

When Sara Selber of BuildClean was asked how she got involved in natural stone and radon, she explained how she was approached by the owner of C&C North America, a company that produces two products – granite and a quartz product called SilestoneŽ™.
“C&C North America then recruited a quartz company called Cambria, after they learned quartz was an issue, she further explained that the two companies hired her to test quartz, granite and other surfaces for radon emission. Both companies are testing their products through BuildClean, and they contracted two labs – one in New York and one in Israel. 

We have looked all over the C&C website but cannot find any mention of natural stone.

When ask what granites emit radon, Sara Selber said; “Not all granites emit radon or radiation. There are some that clearly do. There are some that absolutely don’t. We don’t know,” she said.

They’re being set up as a non-profit, and they’re funded with two large donations.
The first is $250,000 from the makers of ‘Silestone.’ They manufacture quartz countertops, which is a direct competitor to granite. Silestone finance records show that they started out in April of 1998 with a an initial investment of $410K, made there first million in 1998, sales in 2002 was over $70M, and sales in 2006 was well over $260M. it is not hard to see that they have the money to invest $250,000 in a new advertising campaign.

BuildClean is also getting money from Cambria, another quartz manufacturer.
In fact, Cambria’s marketing director is on BuildClean’s board of directors.

When asked about the funding Sara responds: I don’t believe the issue is who our founders are. And I’m not going to have that debate.” That answer seems to be clear enough.

In a recent interview Mrs. Selber mentions teaming up with Al Gerhart who has some interest in the granite \radon scare.

Al Gerhart is a carpenter whohappens to own a website called the Solid Surface Alliance .org. He educated himself, regarding materials he works with that may expose him to harmful elements.”

Upon further review it seems this “personality” is well known for his view of natural stone. All one has to do is look at the website to get the gist of his viewpoint. Coincidentally, there also seems to be a new business venture for Solid Surface Alliance as the website now sells Geiger counters to detect radiation…

His debates have earned him quite a place online in forums discussing the subject.

After a certain debate on a well known residential forum, a renowned geoscientist in the industry concluded:
“Al attempts to hijack debates by choking the system with verbal diarrhea.  The problem appears to be that he has a bit of knowledge about some things but not enough sense and understanding of the subjects.  In that debate on the Garden Forum he threw in so many fabrications (plain made up lies) that his credibility just plummeted to zero.

Anyone who operates this way (by including a number of facts to gain an element of credibility in the eyes of a generally uninformed audience, twisting facts deliberately or because of his lack of understanding, and then throwing in a number of lies) does not deserve extended airtime.   Many years ago when doing science psychology I still remember my professor giving the advice to his students that you should never engage a nutter in debate.  You can never win an argument with such people.   I recognized this early in the forum and that is why I would not engage him in “debate”.

One of his major problems is that he does not know what the numbers mean and how they are derived.”

In response to the buildclean tactics, The Marble Institute of America is in the process of doing their own independent study:

“The Marble Institute of America (MIA) is grateful for the preliminary response from the members to the newly established Truth About Granite Fund.  Based on this positive response, it’s clear that their colleagues share their commitment to protect consumers from needless fear mongering by establishing standards for the testing of granite so consumers can safely and comfortably enjoy the beauty, durability and practicality of this natural stone.”

When we asked the MIA why Sara Speer Selber consider The Truth About Granite Fund  as a draconian move that is being waged against BuildClean(TM), they simple responded:

“The Truth About Granite Fund was established to help raise funds to develop unbiased, scientific standards for the granite industry, including the testing of granite for radon.  No such standards currently exist in the natural stone industry.  Previous tests of granite samples have found they are safe.  However, the Truth in Granite Fund aims to take advantage of new, advanced scientific instruments that make testing both more practical and more accurate. Our goal is to make sure testing follows consistent protocols, so that future studies are meaningful and based on consistent, approved science – not isolated methodologies or unapproved instruments.  Ultimately, our goal is to make sure the granite we sell is safe.” 

This latest sales tactic received the attention of an independent group called the Natural Stone Restoration Alliance (NSRA). The NSRA saw Radon testing as an added service that their members could provide to the homeowners along with all their other services for natural stone. Josveek Huligar, one of the lead testers and trainer for the NSRA , invited times Members of the Solid Surface Alliance dot org to discuss and provide proof of this threat to the home owners.

The Solid Surface Alliance dot org agreed to provide an alleged radiation producing granite sample that they claim to have in their possession to do independent testing. After an initial agreement between the two groups it seems the Solid Surface Alliance dot org has reneged on the delivery of the alleged material. Mr Huligar was disappointed of the outcome. The NSRA than requested the name of the company that Mr. Gerhart claimed to just have rejected over 10k worth of radon producing granite. When the information was not provided, Huligar ask if he could purchase the next slab that Mr. Gerhart rejected. But for some reason Mr. Gerhart could no longer find a sample for testing. Mr. Huligar went on to say:  “All we care about at this point. As for whether are not Stone adds a measurable amount of  “radon” in a home, Mr. Gerhart had agreed to come to NY and pick out a hot slab that I would place in my own home after testing my home for radon. Once the granite was installed I would test my home again as described by the EPA and have it tested by someone approved by the EPA. Not only would we do the short and long term test, we would also video tape the whole event, the selection, the creation, the install, and than setting up cameras for anyone to view the stone and meters on the net. I was looking forward to do this, but at this time it appears that Mr. Gerhart has no plans on doing as he said which is a big disappointment.”

The NSRA plans to push for this simple test, they feel that the consumers only care about one thing; “whether or not adding granite in your home would significantly change the radon levels in a home”. At present, the most prudent consumer should watch the outcome of this debate and make an informed decision, not taken in by a scare tactic by advertisers.

200407076 | What’s Lurking in Your Countertop | News

In geological terms, veins are the finite volumes within stones, having distinct shapes and filled with crystals of minerals which were precipitated from fluids. Due to hydrothermal circulation, fluids carrying mineral constituents form veins into a stone masses. Two types of mechanism- open-space filling and crack seal growth causes veins to be formed in stones and they are the result of growth of crystals on the walls of planar fractures in stones.

Veining in stones varies from soft to hard and soft veins are more susceptible to damage. Wet and damp areas are not suitable for stones that have softer veining as the minerals in them might slowly disintegrate and streaks and color variations occur. Some marbles Creme Marfils, Perlino Rosata, Breccias have this kind of problem. Hence, it is important to select the right stone for the right place according to the quality of veining.

In what seems to be a genuine concern of the effects of radon emissions in residential homes. A certain Webster from a non-profit organization out of Houston has made it a point to imply without scientific proof, that natural stone could be a major contributor of radon in a household.
The allusion that seems to be made, that natural stone installed in your home is dangerous to your health is raised repeatedly on the Webster and in a recent local Houston TV news program.
It’s interesting to note that the two major contributors of this non-profit organization are manufacturers of engineered stone. One of those contributing manufacturers has a marketing executive on the board of directors of this particular organization.

From what may be perceived on the surface as perhaps another “going green” ad campaign, seems to be a different slant on the ongoing battle of the engineered stone manufacturers against natural stone.
Keep in mind that granite as does most natural components found in building material, allows vapors to pass through them that might contain trace amounts of radon. There are very small amounts of uranium found in trace minerals such as biotite in some natural stones. When quarried if a large cluster of biotite is exposed the result initially would be a radon reading. However, once a piece of granite or natural stone exposed to a large amount of uranium rich mineral in the ground is removed from the source and exposed to the air, the radon vapor transmission would weaken drastically and then dissipate. Simply put, think of natural stone as a very dense sponge that allows water, air and yes radon to pass through the stone. Once the stone is removed from the source of radon (the earth) the stone has no radon to filter through it.
We do endorse Radon testing but to allude that natural stone is a main contributor seems ludicrous.
Here are some facts about Radon:
WHERE DOES RADON COME FROM?
“Radon comes from the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium found in the soil beneath the house. The amount of radon in the soil depends on complex soil chemistry, which varies from one house to the next. Radon levels in the soil range from a few hundred to several thousands of pCi/L. The amount of radon that escapes from the soil to enter the house depends on the weather, soil porosity, soil moisture, and the suction within the house”.
HOW DOES RADON GET INTO THE HOUSE?
“Houses act like large chimneys. As the air in the house warms, it rises to leak out the attic openings and around the upper floor windows. This creates a small suction at the lowest level of the house, pulling the radon out of the soil and into the house.( Just as natural stone filters radon emission as mentioned before.) You can test this on a cold day by opening a top floor window an inch. You will notice warm air from the house rushing out that opening; yet, if you open a basement window an inch, you will feel the cold outside air rushing in. This suction is what pulls the radon out of the soil and into the house. You might think caulking the cracks and the openings in the basement floor will stop the radon from entering the house. However, scientific studies show, it only takes enough unsealed cracks or pin holes in the caulking to equal a hole 1/2″ in diameter to let all the radon in. It is unlikely that caulking the accessible cracks and joints will permanently seal the openings radon needs to enter the house. The radon levels will still likely remain unchanged.
Fortunately, there are other extremely effective means of keeping radon out of your home. Throughout the country, several million people have already tested for radon. Some houses tested as high as 2,000-3,000 pCi/L; yet, there hasn’t been one house that could not mitigate to an acceptable level. The difference in reference to natural stone is that one the stone slab is removed from the source and exposed to the atmosphere the radon is vented in the same way ventilation of a house mitigates the radon emissions in the soil.
Levels of radiation from granite products, which technically are measurable, are in fact, small fractional values of established thresholds for environmental safety. The truth of the matter is that granite is a safe product. It’s been used for thousands of years and the relationship between granite and radon has been studied for years and years. How safe is granite? There have been mathematical models developed that show that one could live in an all-granite home or building, including sleeping on granite, for an entire year and still be within very safe levels of exposure.
Calculations show that, if an average countertop, traps an average uranium concentration of four ppm (parts per million), the concentration of radon that is given off by the countertop into the household air would be 270,000 times less than the level of radon in the outside air. The maximum contact level that you would receive over one year if you were to sit on a countertop all of the time would be about one quarter of the annual radiation from all sources. If you were just a few inches away from the granite (such as when doing the dishes), the dose would be too low to measure.
To Quote Donald Langmuir, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Geochemistry, Colorado School of Mines, & President, Hydrochem Systems Corp.
”To show how laughable are the concerns of radon emitted from natural stone, the typical granite countertop in our example will release 7.4 x 10 -7 pCi/L of air. This corresponds to 2.7 x 10 -8 atom decays per second (dps). This represents 0.85 decays per year. In other words, less than one atom of radon is produced by the countertop in one year. This is hardly worth getting excited about. I would suggest that a good way to reduce our exposure to the radon present in outdoor air would be to build an air-tight house out of granite countertops! There are certain properties of rocks that can increase their radon emanation efficiency, or in other words increase the release of radon from a given weight of rock. These are rock properties that maximize the exposure of internal or external rock surfaces to water or air, allowing any radon gas to escape. The author of ‘Granite and Radon’ argues that such properties, which include rock porosity, fissuring and mylonitization, will increase radon releases. This is probably true, however, a granite with such properties would be too brittle to make into a countertop, and too open to take a polish, and so would not be marketable as a countertop - unless the rock pores were first filled with a chemical sealant. Such sealing would also eliminate any possible radon release problems.”
In a more recent study that was conducted by L. L. Chyi, a Ph.D. and professor of Geochemistry and Environmental Geology at The University of Akron, Akron, Ohio. Dr. Chyi studied 13 of the most popular granites used throughout the United States as determined by an industry-wide survey. Due to their popularity these 13 granites, are believed to represent up to 85% of the granite countertop market in recent years. The granite types are as follows:
1. New Venetian Gold, Brazil; medium grained, yellow-beige gneiss with many dark red garnets
2. Uba Tuba, Brazil; A medium- to coarse grained, olive-green granite
3. Santa Cecilia, Brazil; A coarse-grained, yellow-grey gneiss with up to pie-sized, red garnets
4. Tropic Brown, Saudi Arabia; medium-grained, brown granite
5. Absolute Black, India; black basalt
6. Tan Brown, India; A black-brown igneous rock with big, shapeless, brown-red feldspar crystals
7. Giallo Ornamental, Brazil; coarse-grained, brown-yellow granulite with some brown-red garnets
8. Crema Bordeaux, Brazil; Juparana Crema Bordeaux (Brunello). A coarse- to very coarse-grained, pink to red granite with areas of quartz, alkali feldspar and quite a lot of ore
9. Baltic Brown, Finland; brown-black granite
10. Giallo Veneziano, Brazil; medium- to coarse-grained, ochre-yellow to golden-brown, also light pink, gneiss
11. Dakota Mahogany, USA; medium- to coarse-grained, brown-red granite
12. China Black, China, a fine-grained plutonic rock
13. Yellow Star, China, a medium-grained yellow to pink granite
The testing methodology was designed to measure the amount of radon which each granite type would add to the interior of a 2,000 square foot, normally ventilated home with 8 ft ceilings. The results show that Crema Bordeaux (the most active in terms of radon emissions) would contribute a concentration component of less than 0.28 pCi/L, or less than 7% of the EPA’s recommended actionable level of 4.0 pCi/L. This radon amount is well below a level which might cause health concerns. Tropic Brown and Baltic Brown, second and third in radon emanation based upon Dr. Chyi’s testing, amounted to only 1% of this action level. The other granites tested added almost immeasurable amounts of radon to the house. Radon atoms in pore spaces and fractures are of minimal concern in the case of granite countertops
Dr. Chyi’s test results show that the granites that are currently found in the United States’ market place are insignificant contributors to radon levels in the home. “Based on the testing results and EPA standards, we can conclude that the most popular granites used as countertop surfaces pose no health threat to homeowners. If proper resealing is applied once a year or at other frequencies determined by the industry, the radon emanation can be further reduced”.
Daniel J. Steck, Ph.D. also ran a test on interior radon and granite, and this is what he had to say.
“The average radionuclide contents of your building material samples are similar to other average granite samples and other common earth-derived building materials such as brick and soil. Thus, the amount of gamma radiation emitted from similar masses of these building materials will be approximately the same;
There is little sample-to-sample variation in the radon family radionuclide concentrations; the radon flux is somewhat larger for the counter-top squares than for the smaller samples. This indicates that the effective diffusion length is only on the order of the thickness of the counter-top samples, i.e. several centimeters. Thus, material thicker than 5 cm (2″) most likely will not emit more than the counter-top samples.
While we feel that health safety is a great concern especially in our homes, for an industry to attempt to gain financially by “scare tactics” or under the auspices of “Eco friendly” is reprehensible. We urge the consumer to not be taken in by these alarmist tactics.

Radon In Granite Causes Cancer | Newsflash2

Diovan
Purchase Herbolax

Is your countertop surface damaged or showing its age? Don’t replace it – repair it! We have restored countertops, sinks, tub surrounds, service bars, and many other surfaces damaged by:
• Cracks
• Chips
• Stains
• Scratches
• Dullness from long term wear.

WHY Choose A NSRA Member?
We understand that your kitchen, bath and work surfaces represent a significant investment in your home or business. We know that you want the repairs to be made quickly and professionally with minimal disruption and mess.

• Specially Trained Techs
Our members specialize in restoring, repairing, and refinishing a wide range of natural stone surfaces, including Granite, Natural Marble, Travertine and many other natural stone products from all over the world. The natural stone restoration specialists of the NSRA are highly trained and experienced.

• State-of-the-Art Equipment
NSRA members are kept up to date on the latest restoration techniques, the use state-of-the-art tools and use the finest materials for repairs.

• Timely Response
We will follow up on your service requests within 24 hours, provide you with realistic estimates and schedules, and make every effort to work quickly and efficiently. We make the extra effort to be timely and customer-friendly.

When you choose NSRA member you can be confident that the technicians will be neat, courteous, professional, and fully qualified to do the job. It is our mission for you to be delighted with our work and our service. We strive to ensure that you are so satisfied with our restoration work that you will recommend us to others for their natural stone repairs.

We also offer scheduled maintenance programs that keep your Natural stone surfaces looking like new.

Columbus Ohio Countertop Repair - Columbus Ohio Countertop Repair

Home remodelers and builders have experienced a boom in the demand for granite countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. The beauty and warmth of granite makes it an ideal material for aesthetic appeal in home design, and the durability and easy care of granite countertops keeps them a favorite for homeowners who are looking into the future. Though adding granite countertops to any kitchen can be quite costly, they remain the premiere choice in upscale homes, as they retain their value better than most other improvements.
Granite, like marble and other popular stones, are as old as the earth. Granite is found all over the world. As a preferred material, granite was used in the construction of temples and other public buildings in ancient societies. In the recent past many builders continued to use granite for pillars and exterior finishes. Stone suppliers didn’t begin experimenting with polished granite until 1831. The preference for polished granite began in 1851, when a finished piece of granite was displayed in London at The Great Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations.

Granite makes an excellent medium for countertops, as it is the most durable of all stones. The hardness of granite is rivaled only by the hardness of diamonds. The durability and versatility of granite countertops makes it a favorite of professional and home chefs. Granite can withstand the placement of a hot pot and serves as an excellent surface for handling doughs and confectionery. The natural beauty of granite countertops complement any tone of wood or style of cabinetry, from French country to sleek modern styles. Granite is an attractive stone that adds color and warmth to any room.

Granite Countertops Have Become Popular
A popular choice of designers for decades, granite countertops have now become popular with the public. There are literately hundreds of colors of granite, from variations of white through browns, reds, greens, blues, and black. Brown and beige tones are the most popular, as they work well with most any kitchen color scheme, allowing greater flexibility in redecorating over the years. Some of the granite colors exhibit ‘movement’ or a design within the natural color. Movement from large patterns can carry the eye quickly over the surface of the countertop, while small patterns have a more sedate appearance. The combination of color and movement means that no two countertops are exactly the same.
While granite countertops are a favorite choice due to their beauty and durability, they are not impervious to damage. Regular care includes proper cleaning and the use of sealers to prevent staining. Although granite is quite hard, it can be easily be chipped. A skilled professional can perform repairs that are nearly invisible.
Cost & Maintenance
Granite countertops can cost more than other countertop materials, with prices starting at $60 a square foot installed. The majority of the cost is not in the stone, but in the quarry work, cutting, transportation, polishing and installations. It is not recommended that the do-it-yourself homeowner to take on this project. Despite the strength of granite, the oversized slab sheets must be precisely cut to fit the counters, and are very delicate when transported. Special care must be taken to reinforce the base cabinets, and the slab must be set perfectly level. Failure to properly set a granite countertop could cause it to break during regular use.

When a homeowner desires the utility of granite countertops, but is unable or unwilling to pay a premium, discounted granite for countertops may be a good option. Retailers maintain groupings or tiers of stone based on popularity of color and movement. Lower tiered cuts of stone maintain the consistent characteristics granite is known for, but the shade of a color may vary according to current fashion trends.

Granite Lasts a Lifetime

Granite countertops will continue to remain a favorite of homeowners, architects and interior designers. The ageless beauty and durability of granite makes it a home improvement treasure to last a lifetime.

Chitosan

 
Granite Countertops Have Become Popular
A popular choice of designers for decades, granite countertops have now become popular with the public. There are literately hundreds of colors of granite, from variations of white through browns, reds, greens, blues, and black. Brown and beige tones are the most popular, as they work well with most any kitchen color scheme, allowing greater flexibility in redecorating over the years. Some of the granite colors exhibit ‘movement’ or a design within the natural color. Movement from large patterns can carry the eye quickly over the surface of the countertop, while small patterns have a more sedate appearance. The combination of color and movement means that no two countertops are exactly the same.
While granite countertops are a favorite choice due to their beauty and durability, they are not impervious to damage. Regular care includes proper cleaning and the use of sealers to prevent staining. Although granite is quite hard, it can be easily be chipped. A skilled professional can perform repairs that are nearly invisible.

Cost & Maintenance
Granite countertops can cost more than other countertop materials, with prices starting at $60 a square foot installed. The majority of the cost is not in the stone, but in the quarry work, cutting, transportation, polishing and installations. It is not recommended that the do-it-yourself homeowner to take on this project. Despite the strength of granite, the oversized slab sheets must be precisely cut to fit the counters, and are very delicate when transported. Special care must be taken to reinforce the base cabinets, and the slab must be set perfectly level. Failure to properly set a granite countertop could cause it to break during regular use.
When a homeowner desires the utility of granite countertops, but is unable or unwilling to pay a premium, discounted granite for countertops may be a good option. Retailers maintain groupings or tiers of stone based on popularity of color and movement. Lower tiered cuts of stone maintain the consistent characteristics granite is known for, but the shade of a color may vary according to current fashion trends.

Granite Lasts a Lifetime
Granite countertops will continue to remain a favorite of homeowners, architects and interior designers. The ageless beauty and durability of granite makes it a home improvement treasure to last a lifetime.

Granite Countertops - Natural Stone Restoration Alliance

Purchase Diflucan

The kitchen counter has come a long way from its humble utilitarian beginnings. It is now a pivotal part of modern kitchens.But do you know how to choose between granite, laminate or some other material when matching a countertop to your kitchen activity and your tolerance for stains? Consumer Reports offers these five tips:

• See where you can save. Countertops typically cost between $600 and $6,000 for 55 square feet, the average amount in a kitchen. Cut costs by installing smaller, cheaper stone remnants instead of a single, premium-priced slab of stone. Save further by accentuating a large, lower-priced run of laminate with a small but beautiful piece of stone on the island.

• Get the big picture. Envisioning your finished project by the tiny samples most home improvement stores provide isn’t easy. Lowe’s (lowes.com) and specialty store DuPont (dupont.com) offer interactive style guides that let you choose color and material options and place them in virtual settings.

• Think about your sink. Waterproof materials are a must if you want an undermounted sink. Stainless steel, solid surfacing and concrete are best suited for seamless installations when the sink material matches that of the counter.

• Consider seams. Post-formed laminate counters are seam-free from the front edge to the backsplash, but you’ll notice the seams where the two pieces meet. For virtually invisible seams, go for solid surface and stainless steel.

• Visit the stone yard. Unlike quartz, laminate or solid surfacing, stone can vary from slab to slab. Don’t buy based on a store sample but go to the stone yard and pick a piece with the color and texture you prefer.

This two-day boot camp is packed with skills training that can only be learned through a true hands-on experience. One on one tutoring based on your individual skill level. Each student has the opportunity to perform multiple repairs and polish various types of stones. No seats. No stories. No sales pitch. The students will learn how to make repairs and seams look and feel like a natural product, remove scratches, factory blending, chip repairs, color blending and matching, seam repairs, honing, and the widely coveted knowledge of top-polishing.
This class includes some of today’s new trends and finishes. Students will also learn how to deal with and doctor natural stone in a variety of colors, how to perform and maintain the antique finish, and how to remove the flaws of poor cnc tooling.
Successful participants receive not only the knowledge, complete set of tools necessary to perform typical surface repairs, but they are also eligible to join the NSRA.
The NSRA is a nationwide group of independent, natural stone restoration professionals dedicated to quality and the education of the consumer and our members.
Time: August 22nd-24th 2008, from 9am-5pm
Place: 30 Hilliard Street, Manchester CT, 06040
Cost: $1,800.00 us dollars
Public registration Ended: August 12, 2008
Click HERE to see what others had to say about the class.

Click HERE to sign up our comprehensive class
Airport: Bradley International
Hotel: Fairfield Inn & Suites SM by MarriottŽ Hartford Manchester
121 Pavilions Dr
Manchester, CT 06040

August 22nd-23th 2008 Stone Repair Class | Story

In what seems to be a genuine concern of the effects of radon emissions in residential homes, a certain website from a non-profit organization out of Houston has made it a point to imply without scientific proof, that natural stone could be a major contributor of radon in a household.

From what may be perceived on the surface as perhaps another “going green” ad campaign, seems to be a different slant on the ongoing battle of the engineered stone manufacturers against natural stone.

You can rad more about that here.

The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home for two days to 90 days, depending on the device. “Charcoal canisters,” “alpha track,” “electret ion chamber,” “continuous monitors,” and “charcoal liquid scintillation” detectors are most commonly used for short-term testing. Because radon levels tend to vary from day to day and season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level. If you need results quickly, however, a short-term test followed by a second short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix your home.

How To Use a Test Kit:

Testing is easy and should only take a few minutes of your time.

Follow the instructions that come with your test kit. If you are doing a short-term test, close your windows and outside doors and keep them closed as much as possible during the test. Heating and air-conditioning system fans that re-circulate air may be operated. Do not operate fans or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating only for short periods of time may run during the test. If you are doing a short-term test lasting just 2 or 3 days, be sure to close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test, too. You should not conduct short-term tests lasting just 2 or 3 days during unusually severe storms or periods of unusually high winds. The test kit should be placed in the lowest lived-in level of the home (for example, the basement if it is frequently used, otherwise the first floor). It should be put in a room that is used regularly (like a living room, playroom, den or bedroom) [B]but not your kitchen or bathroom[/B]. Place the kit at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it won’t be disturbed - away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls. Leave the kit in place for as long as the package says. Once you’ve finished the test, reseal the package and send it to the lab specified on the package right away for analysis. You should receive your test results within a few weeks.

Phentermine For Sale
Getting High On Phentermine

Lamictal And Phentermine Interactions

Solution:
1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good detergent.
2. If stain is still present clean the area with an alkaline degreaser (Commercial degreasers are available at most janitorial supply houses). Mix with water according to directions and let solution stand on stained area for several minutes. Agitate with a cloth and rinse with clean water.
3. If stain is still not removed than poultice with powder (diatomous earth or similar powder) and an alkaline degreaser. A second poultice may be required using powder and a solvent such as toluene or methylene chloride if there is dye present.

If for some reason this stain was not removed by the solution above, contact the guys at the NSRA for assistance. you may also want to consider picking up some stone care products to prevent this type of damage in the future.

Design philosophies come and go. Big cars with fins were replaced by small cars with good gas mileage. Then came the SUV. Then the hybrid. In the kitchen design industry we grew up with the kitchen triangle. As appliance companies created more and better choices, the single triangle became two triangles. As the needs of the American family changed we shifted into “zones”. A prep zone, a baking zone, a cooking zone, a home-work zone - as many “zones” as the kitchen has activities. That was the first step toward thinking outside the box to improve function. However, the zone and triangle philosophies ultimately fail because they are arbitrary - ignorant of the home they are in and the family they need to serve.

Design needs to begin by focusing on cooking. Cooking is a process, not an activity, so it requires a design system based on concepts like volume, expansion and compression, fluidity, and frequency. This is the new language of kitchen design. It enables the designer to see the kitchen as a whole system with component parts that must be made to work together - not placed haphazardly based on the convenience of the cabinet manufacturer.

The kitchen system consists of the related sub-systems of storage (including refrigeration), food preparation, clean-up, cooking and baking. Understanding the relationship between the subsystems is a fundamental responsibility of a kitchen designer and it comes from understanding the requirements of the space. When kitchen designers sit down with a new client, the first space they should visit is not the kitchen, but the dining room because the core concept a designer must understand is volume. Volume of people, volume of meals, volume of work - these are all based on the number of seats in the dining room. Shopping, cooking, and cleaning up for four people are a very different task than it is for eight or ten or twelve. It requires different appliances and often, different layouts. Remember, the house itself can be thought of as a client so the kitchen and dining room must be in balance. Here is where many kitchen designers begin to object, saying “Its a family of four. They will only have people over on the holidays. Holiday cooking doesn’t count because they have time to cook all day.” Since when has good design been based on satisfying minimum requirements? Perhaps these families entertain less than they like because their dysfunctional kitchens prevent them from cooking large meals comfortably and enjoyably.

The other objection we encounter from designers is, “Dont worry about it, they dont cook anyway.” This is simply not true. Eighty-two percent of Americans cook at home four or more times per week. Forty-nine percent make meals from scratch on a regular basis (TIME Magazine, 2002). Even more fundamental, The Food Network is watched in Prime Time in over 800,000 households. That’s a lot of families who want to watch cooking shows instead of Prime Time TV. American families may cook less often during the week but many of them cook for fun on weekends. And that brings us back to volume: the most important factor to consider before you begin to design a kitchen is the volume of people the kitchen will need to serve, not just on a daily basis but also when entertaining.

Just as a functional kitchen will allow the cook to make a sit-down dinner for ten with ease (expansion), it should also work when cooking for one (compression). This kind of expansion and compression creates a flexible space where the cook manipulates the environment, instead of the kitchen manipulating the cook. Many large kitchens are actually harder to use than small kitchens because they lack this kind of fluid, adjustable workspace.

What makes a kitchen able to work for one or two people as well as large groups? Different types of storage are one factor. Walk-in pantries are wonderful for storing low-frequency items bought at Costco or the ice cream maker that gets used once a year. If the cook must go to the pantry to retrieve pasta or chicken broth or other items used on a daily or even weekly basis, then having only a walk-in-pantry begins to work against him or her. The additional steps make the cooking and clean-up processes longer than they need to be. High frequency items - be they food products, pots or serving dishes - must be stored within close range of the cooks primary work center. That work center is the heart of the kitchen. With minimal walking, the cook should be able to move from the refrigerator and high-frequency pantry to the food preparation area. The individual space will determine what these distances can be and it is critical to be aware of priorities - it is more important to have continuous counterspace next to the prep sink than to have the shortest possible walk to the fridge. Optimal kitchen layouts allow the cook to move something from the prep area to the cooking area (and back again) simply by turning around. All of these recommendations depend upon the specific space and the people who live there - they should be viewed as goals, rather than guidelines.

In kitchen design, fluidity is defined as the unobstructed movement of people, food, and tools from one subsystem to another. Some designers place wall ovens like an afterthought - in the corner after everything else has found a home. Unfortunately, many recipes call for certain dishes to move from the cooktop into the oven (or vice versa) at some point in the cooking process. The kitchen then becomes an obstacle course with hot, heavy pans careening from one end to the other. This is just one example of how poor flow impacts the cooks ability to prepare meals.

Another very common problem is that dishes, dirtied in the cooking process or coming from the table, move through the cook’s work area. This is especially problematic in kitchens that have only one sink. It’s difficult to wash lettuce, drain pasta, or add water to dough if the sink is already full of dirty dishes, pots and pans. When designing kitchens with separate clean-up and preparation sinks, the dirty dishes should go the clean-up area without getting tangled in the cook’s work center. It is a widespread belief in the design industry that only large kitchens deserve multiple sink stations. This assumption is faulty - we have successfully designed many kitchens less than 100 square feet and the addition of a prep sink has transformed a constricted space into a convenient workstation. That simple change can improve the flow of a kitchen so much that it doubles the utility of the kitchen without enlarging the footprint. More importantly, it allows two people to work in the kitchen with ease. When considering flow patterns, the individual family and their space are of paramount concern. Many kitchens force children to walk through the cook’s path to get a glass of juice or a snack - troublesome for many parents but not so critical for a couple with an empty nest.

The last pillar of kitchen design is frequency. We’ve touched on it already because it is of vital concern in any kitchen design. Understanding frequency-of-use enables the designer and the consumer to make the most of their space, their budget, and improve their quality of life. In the storage subsystem, place frequently used items near where they will be used most often: pots and pans near the cooktop, cookie sheets near the oven, cutting boards near the food prep area and so on. While this seems obvious, many kitchens ignore the principal. For example, when a clean-up area (or the kitchens only sink station) is put on an island, it usually requires clean dishes be carried from the dishwasher to a wall cabinet - which could be many steps away.

Frequency is also important when it comes to placing appliances. For example, many kitchens have cooktops on an island because the designer or consumer assumes this will make the kitchen more “social”. They imagine lovely conversations held with family and friends while preparing a meal. Unfortunately, most of the work done on the cooktop is unattended: put the pot on the burner, turn it on and turn back to the prep area. Food preparation takes more time than any other activity in the kitchen. Given the choice, it is usually much more “social” to place the prep sink on the island.

Another common assumption in the design industry is that the clean-up sink must be placed under a window. In reality, washing dishes takes far less time than food preparation or cooking. Since most dishes are generated at dinnertime, is it really so important to be near a window for a short amount of time and in the dark?

Designers are exceptional, creative people. They are enormously talented when it comes to designing kitchens with forward-thinking “outside the box” aesthetics. Unfortunately, when it comes to the function of a kitchen, “outside the box” design fails because what’s inside the box, the design strategy of triangles or zones - is unrelated to the process of cooking. These incomplete design philosophies engender beautiful, dysfunctional kitchens that ultimately serve no purpose to anyone. The homeowners lose much of their initial satisfaction as frustration overwhelms beauty. Consequently, the designer loses repeat and referral clients - something most showrooms and independent designers agree is critical for long-term success. As designers, it is our responsibility to educate ourselves about the cooking process so that we can give our clients a truly complete - beautiful and functional - end result. It’s not just good for our clients, it’s good for our business and the reputation of our industry.

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Probably the biggest misconception people have of natural stone is its maintenance. Truthfully, natural stone requires about the same care and maintenance as any counter top or floor, and certainly no more than natural wood products like tables and chairs.

The best care you can give your natural stone is preventative care. Preventing stains or scratching before they happen is far easier and cheaper than getting rid or repair of them after the fact.

Granite countertops are surprisingly resilient to stains, and practically impossible to scratch. But, as a preventative measure, wipe up all spills on the countertops within a reasonable amount of time. Don’t let liquid sit on countertops overnight. Granite is most prone to staining by oil and acid, so blot these spills up soon after they happen, and then clean the stone with stone soap and water.

Marble countertops and tabletops can be etch by acidic foods like fruit, tomato sauce, coffee, and wine. Blot, do not wipe, any spills up immediately, and then clean with stone soap and warm water. Place a mat or pad between marble and anything which might scratch your marble, like a pan or utensils. Use coasters between marble and any glasses, especially ones containing acidic compounds like fruit juices, wine, or coffee.

On floors, the best preventative measure is regular dust mopping. The dirt and grit gets ground into marble or granite tiles and wear away the polish finish. So the regular use of a dust mop can help keep dirt off the floor and preserve the finish. Use mats at all entry points to further ensure the long life of your floor’s beautiful finish. Wet mop regularly with warm water and a good stone soap, and change the rinse water frequently. If the floor is particularly dirty, the use of a strong stone cleaner is perfectly acceptable. If the damage is too extensive you made need the aid of a stone restoration professional.
In bathrooms, marble and granite tend to attract soap scum. Keep a squeegee handy for shower walls, and rinse vanities and natural stone sinks with hot, clean water regularly. Then towel them dry.

The use of sealers is also a powerful preventative measure. For countertops, ask the Natural stone restoration what seal would be best for your application. You may need to reapply a sealer periodically. The frequency of applications will depend on the sealer, and on the type of stone you have. Penetrating sealers are also available for flooring and bath areas. Likewise, the application of additional sealer will depend on the type of stone, the frequency of use, and the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If stains and scratches do occur, there are many things you can do on your own to remove them. On granite countertops, remove oil-based stains with acetone, mineral spirits poultice. Food stains like coffee, tea, or fruit juices can usually be removed with hydrogen peroxide poultice. On marble countertops, avoid harsh cleaners and acidic cleaners, including vinegar.

For stubborn soap scum in the bath, ammonia can be used sparingly. Ammonia will, over time, dull the finish on marble, so use it with caution, and only when the soap scum cannot be removed with a mild, neutral detergent and hot water.

Remember the following list of DOs and DON’Ts:

DO use preventative cleaning measures to keep your stone pristine

DO use sealers, applied and reapplied according to manufacturer’s directions

DO blot up spills quickly, especially on marble, and then wash with mild soapy water

DON’T use any kind of acidic cleaner on marble, limestone, or travertine

DON’T use harsh bathroom cleaners or grout cleaners on any natural stone

DON’T be afraid to call your stone dealer for suggestions on maintenance, care, and cleaning

DON’T worry, if you get a significant stain or scratch, that your entire natural stone investment is ruined. Virtually anything can be fixed with professional help.

Slate is the quiet, little known, but serious, player in countertops for kitchens and vanities. Of course, slate is traditionally seen as a building material for flooring, roofing, cladding on buildings, wherever there is a need for a very strong, solidly performing material. So, why not kitchen countertops?

Slate keeps a low profile. Not often seen at kitchen and bath shows, rarely marketed to kitchen and bath designers, slate is, perhaps, one of the strongest, if not the strongest, materials one can use as a kitchen countertop even exceeding the properties of granite.

Slate, as a countertop material, has numerous properties that we designers look for, and need.

Color

Slate is available in a variety of colors. Mostly understated, in middle to dark tones, the colors of slate are generally seen as:

* Red
* Deep Purple
* Deep Purple/Turquoise Combination
* Turquoise
* Gray
* Black

The look is quiet, elegant, strong, simplistic, nature-like, minimalist.dependent on its application within the room. Slate is almost always honed, although it can be oiled for a slightly more glossy look.

Pattern/Graining

Depending on the variety of the slate, the grain type and pattern can vary. Some slates, as Black Lace, has a distinctive highly textural, high-design look. Other slates exhibit very little graining whatsoever. Others are mottled. Some are quiet, with little graining, except for one strong, localized grain pattern, running through the slate, for a look of pure, natural beauty. Clients must be advised that graining pattern/direction/type cannot be predicted. Photos of completed countertops in their color and a 12×12 sample is helpful.

Edging

Typically, slate edges are simple square edges with a very small radius top and bottom. Variations could be any edge one would see in granite. Due to the understated look, slate is not often seen with an ogee (OG) edge. Slate is perfect for a rough cut, exposed, edge. Try it!

Properties

One of the best properties of slate is its extremely low absorption rate, lower than granite. Designers can consider most slates as being stain-free. KBP.com has performed testing on the turquoise/green colors and has found these slate colors to be stain-free. Slate in the gray/black family may need a sealer. Get 12×12 samples of various colors from a slate distributor. In many cases, they are free.Take time to apply numerous food and acidic substances to the material.wine, coffee, worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, ketchup, tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, oils. Leave 24 hours, wipe clean, and observe. Or, on a 12×12 sample, apply substances to half of that surface. As a result of slate’s low absorption, the material can be considered anti bacterial in nature.

Slab material generally is available in smaller sizes than granite, resulting in an additional seam or two. Pay attention to seaming issues.

Care

Soap and water, or even a tough cleaning product such as Fantastic. If a sheen is desired, use a diluted solution of Murphy’s Oil Soap and water. Apply, and buff off before it dries.

Scratches are easily removed, simply, with a sponge, during normal cleaning of the countertop. Deeper scratches are easily rubbed out with wet steel wool.

ONLY the gray and black stones need to be sealed as they are more absorptive in nature than other colored slates. Thus, mild soaps only should be used on these colors, so as not to strip the sealer.